All photos were done with the Leica M(240) and the 50mm Noctilux, 90mm Elmarit or the 34mm Summicron
The gallery can be found HERE
The tip our trainer Andreas Strauß gave us for a ND filter was not using the 1000x ones but a moderate filter like a 0.6 or only a Pol-Filter. Shooting flowing water, depends on the speed of the water flowing. Andreas explained that if you expose your photos for too long it all gets “foggy” and there is no absolutely detail left. He favours to have at least some details left in order to convey some of the engergy of the flow of the water in your pictures. As the water here was flowing quite quickly the best results for me were with 1/3, 1/4 or 1/6 of a sec. With the waterfall 1/4000 was not enough to capture the individual drops. As it was flowing that quickly probably also 1/8000 would have been not enough.
On the Noctilux I used my “always on” B+W F-Pro 103 ND 0,9 3 BL 8x. This is the standard filter I think Thorsten von Overgaard also recommended in order to be able to use the Noctilux wide open during daytime.
For the 90mm and 35mm I used a B+W XS-Pro HTC Zirkularpolfilter Käsemann MRC nano 39 mm.
I also experimented on the 90mm Elmarit with a B+W F-Pro 110 E ND 3.0 1000x 39mm but the result was diappointing. The tone is way more brownish than usual (the two pics below are an example). Furthermore, those two shots are proof to what Andreas said, the 1000x filter is simply “too much” here, you loose completely all the detail in the water.
Elmarit 90 2.8: First shot with 32 sec f4, ISO 200 , second shot with 3 sec f22 ISO 200
These two photos are perhaps also a good example, when the exposure time is too long.
I had set manually a color temp of 5200.